handlers hands should be thoroughly wet. No hand jewelry should be
worn. The koi may resist movement in a direction it is not going and
become agitated.
If it is difficult to place your hands under a larger koi in the
proper position for support of the koi during transfer, consider
taking advantage of temporary disorientation produced in the koi
when rotated in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction for a few
turns. If going clockwise the handler should place his right hand
across the left head and shoulder area and support the under surface
of the koi just back of the head with his right hand when the koi is
facing at eleven or twelve o'clock. Continue the clockwise rotation
with the right hand, place the left hand under the posterior aspect
of the koi when the head is at four to six o'clock. Lift the koi
from the water. Bring the head close to your body for control, move
your hands with the koi if it moves as you deliberately and promptly
transfer the koi to the immediately adjacent container.
PREPARING
KOI FOR TRANSPORTATION
Stress during koi transportation should be minimized as much as
possible. Stress may lessen the effectiveness of the koi's immune
system. The possibility of infection or other health problems which
could be transmitted to other koi in your pond is enhanced .
Koi should not be fed for at least three days and possibly seven
days before transport. The production of ammonia during transport is
reduced and the transport water is not polluted to the extent that
it would be had the koi been fed during this fasting period. Koi may
be eating algae from the pond wall during the period when they are
not fed.
If an isolation tank with adequate water volume and an active
biological filter is available the koi could be in this tank at
least during the last part of the fasting period. Additives to the
isolation tank water could be salt, mineral salt or various
medications. Be accurate. Do not over medicate. There will be less
stress when the koi is in a dark environment during transport.
Transport water can be cooled to reduce metabolism. Mild sedation
could be considered.
LONG
DISTANCE TRANSPORT
In general koi may be transported for long distances and many hours
safely in plastic bags or in rigid containers, The development of
the plastic bag had an immense impact allowing safe worldwide koi
transportation.
TRANSPORTING KOI IN PLASTIC BAGS
It's time to get physical again. We're going to put our koi in
plastic bags for transport. There is a wide choice in bag size and
thickness. The bag should be longer than the rectangular corrugated
cardboard koi box or any other container into which the bag will be
placed. This allows secure closure of the bag using most of the
length of the box.
Double plastic bags should be used putting one bag inside the other.
Large koi transported long distances by airplane within the USA or
from overseas may be within the inner bag of 3 to 5 bags. It is
helpful to roll the mouth of the bag down before placing koi in the
plastic bag. This produces a relatively fixed opening and keeps
water from going between the bags. Put some water from the pond or
water prepared specifically for the transport into the bag.
The koi is put into the bag by hand transfer or by using your free
hand to direct the koi into the bag. Usually only one koi 18 to 20
inches in length is placed in a bag, perhaps two 15 to 18 inch koi
are placed in the saw size bag, etc. The gills should be covered
with water, I prefer to add enough water so that the koi can float,
not rest on the bottom of the box.
Some hobbyists and dealers put additives in the transport water.
This includes such things as salt. mineral salt, antiparasitic
medication, antibacterial medication, etc. If you choose to do so.
do not overdose. Prepare the transport water accurately and add it
to the bag. Transfer the fish into the bag by hand, sock net, or bag
with a corner cut out to drain the pond water from the bag so that
minimal pond water will be added to the transport water. The
transport water will not be significantly diluted. The bagged koi is
placed in a corrugated rectangular koi box, styrofoam box,
polystyrene box. ice chest, etc. The length of the box is usually
about two times the width or height. The width and height are
normally similar. Newspapers are often placed in the bottom of the
koi box primarily for insulation. I won't say that Japanese
newspapers are best but the koi I have received directly from Japan
have been calm and happy.
Look closely at the bagged koi in the transportation box. If water
needs to be added or removed, do so. Remove all air from the bag by
carefully compressing the bag down to the water level. Pleat the
plastic bag near the mouth of the bag so no air reenters the bag.
Insert the hose from the regulator (attached to an oxygen cylinder)
through the mouth of the bag. Slowly fill the bag with pure oxygen
to about three fourths full and withdraw the hose. Twist the neck of
the bag so no oxygen escapes. Fold the neck of the inner bag over
and secure it with rubber bands tightly placed over the folded neck.
Use two rubber bands for safety. Seal the outer begs in sequence in
the same manner. Insulating material (usually newspapers) is placed
over the bag in the box and the box is sealed.
If one wishes to gradually lower the water temperature in the bag
during transit, place frozen reusable freeze packs on top of the bag
before adding newspaper insulation. Support the bottom of the
cardboard box when it is being carried.
Place the transport box or
other container holding the bagged koi in the transport vehicle
sideways to the travel direction Braking during transit would then
move larger koi sideways and would not bang their nose against the
end of the box. The risk of injury is reduced. The transport box
must be secured so it does not move during transit.
